“Tuna tartare is the new gefilte fish,” Moshe Schonfeld, an owner of Ossie’s Fish, told the New York Times. The Wall Street Journal greeted the move of Crown-Heights based Izzy’s as the new trend in kosher restaurants towards smokehouses. The media seems to be aghast that kosher has drifted so far from gefilte fish and chopped liver (they are doing extremely well, thank you).

“Look at branzino,” said Mr. Schonfeld, 32. “No one had heard about it until three or four years ago; now everyone eats it.” He seized on their newfound curiosity to offer crudo and ceviche options, and dishes like blueberry vodka-cured salmon. Most recently, during the pandemic, he introduced take-home tuna tartare kits, which were a surprise hit, selling out at most locations every week by Friday morning. Said the Times: “The experimental kosher food movement has been trending for the last decade, and a full-on mini revolution is now taking place in the New York City area.” Shifra and Shlomo Klein, who founded Fleishigs Magazine more than three years ago, got a shoutout. The WSJ article described the new smokehouse restaurants as trendsetting. “At Izzy Eidelman’s newly opened barbecue restaurant on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, fans of the classic American cuisine